FCN Blog

Weed: My Most Unwanted Plant

by Cortney Moore

The word weed makes me cringe. It makes my skin crawl. I am not talking about the weed that has been on the minds of most people in Colorado this year. The weed I am talking about is a plant growing where I don’t want it. It is a plant growing vigorously or in some cases in an invasive manner.

Last year I started a major project in my yard. Think Bobcat Skid-steer Tractor, 7 tons of flagstones and a whole lot of soil moving going on. So much soil was moved from one area to another that by the end of the season the weeds had gotten out of control. At this point, I thought I needed to do something about them. I yanked as many as I could. While I was playing tug of war with the nasty buggers, a million lovely little pepper speck seeds dropped to the ground. I waited too long. I felt defeated, but fall was too busy to do much about the new problem I had created.

Through the winter I stared out the kitchen window and contemplated bringing in truckloads of mulch or covering the ground with cardboard to suppress the seeds. I never actually got around to this and with March upon us, the amount of moisture in the ground and all those seeds out there are on my mind. Visions of weeds springing to life as temperatures warm haunt me. In order to get a jump on the weeds before they become the headlining plant in my yard this year, I concocted a plan to take care of these green devils. I am determined to make my yard an enjoyable place fit for entertaining this season. Read on to learn my plan of attack.

Depending on what the weather decides to do, I will apply a pre-emergent product sometime in March. Pre-emergents do not kill seeds; they destroy young weed seedlings so the product must be present prior to germination. Initially I thought about using corn gluten, but the research I read said corn gluten is most effective as a pre-emergent weed control in an established lawn and is less effective in open and disturbed soil like my yard, so it appears that for my application I will need a chemical type. Pre-emergents stop all seeds from germinating and I am planning to sow a cover crop so I will have to be aware of the amount of time the product is active in the soil before I put my cover crop seed down. I am still deciding which cover crop to use and need to do more research.

My next line of defense will be post-emergent. I will incorporate as many post-emergent methods as necessary to put the smack down on these monsters. I prefer mechanical methods, such as using my long handle weeder, hula hoe and spreading mulch or other weed barriers. I know I have some fairly aggressive weeds out there and some chemical warfare will be necessary, especially on the cotton wood suckers from the tree my neighbor cut down last year. Yes, they are weeds too. Remember: A plant growing where I don’t want it.

I love my long handle weeder. I love it so much that I have been known to give it to friends who come over and have never had one. Part of the joy of gardening is sharing. So I just give it to them and buy another. This type of weeder doesn’t always get the entire root, but it can pop baby dandelions out as they emerge.

The Hula hoe is another one of my favorite tools for mechanical control. I also consider it a bit of an upper body work out when I use it so I can skip the gym that day.

Mulch is a must have in my yard. It not only suppresses weeds, it improves soil, conserves water, and has many other benefits. (Join us for The Magic of Mulch class on Sunday, May 18^th to learn more.) For large areas I load my truck at free pick up locations. This leaves me more money to buy plants. When I want something more decorative or a specialty mulch, I visit my local garden center.

While I prefer mechanical weed control, I do occasionally reach for the bottle. The products listed below are what work for me. Please read labels thoroughly and talk with your nursery professionals before using any of the products. That is the only motherly warning you will hear from me today.

Fertilome Weed Free Zone is my go to for getting an early start. It works in cooler temperatures so I like it as weeds start to green up in the spring and the mornings are still in the 40s and 50s.

Fertilome Brush and Stump Killer is potent but it is necessary for suckers when your neighbor takes an ancient cottonwood out and don’t kill the entire root system, or you try to dig honey locusts, choke cherries or aspens and they just keep coming back. I always try my trusty shovel on suckers first and use Brush and Stump Killer as a last resort. A word of caution: Brush and Stump Killer is not Sucker Stopper. It will kill the entire root system and plant. Do not use on suckers that are attached to a desirable plant.

Now don’t get the impression that I am a manic welding a sprayer full of poison. I am a realistic gardener who attempts all other methods before going for the heavy hitters but sometimes it takes what it takes.

I advocate for controls that are citric acid or acetic acid based too. They don’t kill the root and often have to be applied more than once. If you can burn the top growth enough the root won’t get fed and presto! No more weed.

As long as I stick to the plan, I imagine I will emerge the victor in my war on weeds. I figure it will take a full season of diligent weeding to really make a difference. The thing that keeps me going is inviting all my friends to see the progress and enjoy the relaxing setting of the living flagstone patio, mini orchard and various other garden rooms. I am always looking for more garden friends so connect with me and maybe you’ll get an invite!

For more gardening and more connecting with Cortney Moore check out mooregarden.com.

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From the Archives: A Season for Dreaming (TREEtalk Winter 1999)

By Kathy Reid

When you live on a corner lot, you get to shovel lots of snow. The other day, as I scooped my way around the corner and down the north walk, I realized that even in the dead of winter I am tending my garden. As I work, I am carefully directing the shovels full of snow to some of my favorite garden plants. You could call it “snow mulching”, I guess. Certain evergreen plants will survive the long winter better if they are buried in a protective snow mound. So, as I scrape along, I purposefully pile a little extra around my handsome hellebore that will sport its strange greenish-white flowers while neighboring red tulips bloom next spring. Another scoop is directed at the Sarcoxie Euonymus that climbs the fence. I shovel on past a gangly Viburnum and make a mental note that it needs a little pruning. Push more snow, scoop it up. There was a bare spot in the planting here. I stop and consider what new, exciting plant I will add next spring.

I reach the end of the walk. The shoveling is finally done. I take one lap around the pond, just a frozen sheet now except for the small hole where the waterfall tumbles in. I study the tracks left in the snow by visiting birds and squirrels. A Tanyosho Pine stands guard above the waterfall while a huge Ponderosa Pine towers overhead, both looking very dramatic with the white icing-like snow spread over their dark green needles. These beautiful evergreens add such life and interest to our winter landscapes. A large, snowy mound at the pond’s edge catches my attention. It is a seedling aster that tempted me with hundreds of pink flowers in the fall, but it grew much too large in its chosen spot. I make another note that it needs to be removed in spring and replaced with something more manageable, perhaps a new variety of Penstemon for my collection.

My hands and toes are numbing so I head into the warm, cozy house and put on some water for tea. Echinacea tea is my choice these days. What a plant! Also known as purple coneflower, it is one of my favorite summer perennials, blooming for weeks and weeks behind the pond. And in the dead of winter, it makes a tasty tea that helps fight off those nasty winter colds.

My cup of tea in hand, my final destination for the afternoon is a soft, comfy chair near a big window. Outside the birds are feasting on hawthorn berries from the small tree at the corner of the house and sunflower seeds from my strategically placed bird feeder. The small wooden table next to my chair is piled high with magazines and catalogs, each and every one plant-related: Horticulture, Fine Gardening, The Colorado Gardener, and seed catalogs too numerous to mention.

Yes, this is the life of a Colorado gardener in winter. I revel in the contrast of our seasons. Winter is a break from the weeding watering. It is a time to enjoy the special beauty of a frosty landscape but most of all; it is a time to dream. While the plants of my garden sleep, I immerse myself in the pages and pages of colorful gardens at my fingertips. I feast upon the new plant offerings for the coming spring. And I dream, and I scheme, and I plan for next spring’s endeavors in my own little piece of the world.

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Winter Dreams of Springtime Bounty

By Jesse Eastman

GardenSketch3_WEB According to Greek mythology, Persephone, bride of Hades, returns to the underworld every year for a three month reign as Queen of the Underworld. When she goes, her mother, Demeter, the goddess of agriculture, despairs at her daughter’s absence, plunging us into a cold barren winter when no food can grow. Perhaps it is pompous of me to aim for something greater than god-like behavior, but I say that rather than despair, we should use these short dark days to plan for an ever more bountiful spring.

There is a wealth of knowledge that can be gleaned from a thoughtful and thorough reflection on the previous season’s garden. Better yet, take a careful read through your garden journal (if you keep one – if not, maybe 2014 is the year to start). Take a walk down memory lane and think about what you want to change in the New Year.

Often overlooked is the right balance of which vegetables to grow. I never seem to plant enough carrots, and I can never resist planting more tomatoes and peppers than I know what to do with. Even a small patch of potatoes can have massive yields, especially in well-cultivated soil that allows for good root penetration. Corn, on the other hand, needs ample space and many plants to ensure proper pollination.

Perhaps 2014 will open your eyes to cut flowers. Gladiolas, cosmos, dahlias, and sunflowers all make great arrangements that can easily brighten any room, and they serve multiple benefits in the garden. Not only do they bring a veritable painter’s palate of color to the garden, but they attract a wide variety of important pollinators whose busy work in the garden is essential for a good harvest. You could even mix in a few well-placed perennials with your vegetables and herbs – coneflower, iris, and salvia all make potent additions to any garden. Maybe daylilies with their subtly sweet edible blossoms could find a place between the tarragon and basil.

Planning next year’s garden doesn’t just need to be a process of fine-tuning. My father loves to tell me “the best gardeners in the world have killed more plants than anyone else.” The only way to improve as a gardener is to take risks. Choose something you have never considered growing before and give it a shot. Okra was my flying leap in 2013. It is a gorgeous plant – deeply split maple-like leaves and showy cream-colored flowers – and it loves our long hot sunny days. Turns out you have to pick the pods when they are very small, or else they get exceptionally tough and borderline inedible. I’ll try again this year, and I’ll be a little quicker to harvest.

These types of reflections will make us better gardeners, and by reliving our horticultural exploits, we are reminded of the pleasures we derive from our labors. So while Persephone is hanging out with Hades and Demeter’s distress gives us a moment of respite from the toils of the soil, let us pour a cup of hot cocoa, pull out a pen and paper, and indulge in a daydream.

Like us on facebook and tell us what new plants you’ll be trying in 2014 for your chance to win a $25 Gift Card to Fort Collins Nursery!

Post by Fort Collins Nursery.

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Win tickets to Colorado Eagles hockey games!

Enter to win a Colorado Eagles Prize Pack by entering the drawing below. Prize pack includes:

One pair of tickets to the following Colorado Eagles home games:
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- December 11, 2013: 7:05 pm vs Las Vegas Wranglers
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- December 14, 2013: 7:05 pm vs Las Vegas Wranglers
$30.00 Fort Collins Nursery Gift Card

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Holiday Memories

by Cortney Moore

HeartPinecone_WEB The holidays seem to bring out the best in humanity. We see people dropping money in red buckets with the bell ringers or packing food and toys into big boxes wrapped like presents. Families choose tags off trees to buy presents for the less fortunate and more people take the time to volunteer.

Take a few moments and contemplate the best of your holidays. Let everything melt away and recall your best holiday memory. My favorite memories are wrapped up in poinsettias, fresh wreaths, cut trees, shiny keepsake ornaments and the people with whom I’ve shared such precious moments.

At Fort Collins Nursery we focus on the feel good side of the holidays. We offer a space that is friendly and warm for you to get your holiday fix. Our dedicated staff is pride of its long history of creating holiday memories.

When you pull into our parking lot a forest of gorgeous greenery is waiting for you. Step out of the car and the smell of evergreen meets your nose. Our tree lot is manned by hard working folks with a smile who know the importance of picking out the right tree. From cut trees in all sizes and varieties to live Christmas trees (if you are looking for something more permanent), we’ve got them all.

Enter the Garden Shop through our hall of trees showcasing keepsake ornaments. Don’t forget to grab a cup of coffee, tea, hot coco or cider! Our garden shop greeters can help you select the perfect gift or take your order for a handmade wreath that can be shipped anywhere in the United States. They might even offer you a peak through our holiday glasses and all the lights you see turn to candy canes, reindeer or snowmen.

Now that you have something warm to sip on, wander through the gift area and eventually you will discover the Design Center where the magic happens! The ladies are busily working on the wreaths we ship across the United States. Once they have wowed you with their skills, you can discuss having them create a design for you.

As you turn from the design center you see pretty poinsettias blooming red, pink, white and many other colors. The mini poinsettias are always a hit and make the perfect hostess gift for all your holiday partying. We also have holiday plants like holiday cactus, Norfolk pine and more. Our plant experts are available to answer any questions you have and help you add some blooms and life to your home. Don’t forget to visit the fairies in our fairy corner before you leave and be enchanted this holiday season.

There is something for everyone at Fort Collins Nursery. Stop by and share your best holiday memory or join us in creating a new one.

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Winter Houseplant Care: A pinch of planning for a pound of pride

by Gerry Hofmann

Lemon Now that the weather is definitely ‘fallish’ & even sometimes a bit like winter, many gardeners turn their attention to the cousins of our outdoor landscapes, namely houseplants. They manage to tide us over the cooler winter months quite nicely, if we just give them a little preventative attention.

Some plants have had a summer vacation of their own outside, enjoying the extra light & air for a few months. If you had any in this category, a couple of things to watch out for can keep trouble at bay: spraying them with tepid water, including the undersides of the leaves in the kitchen sink to dislodge any dirt. It may also be a good idea to knock the smaller ones out of their pots to check for insects looking for a free ride inside. Give them a good drink while you’re at it, since inside heated air is very drying, which will draw water out of the soil, too. Some leaves need removing if they have gotten sunscald or show evidence of slug or insect damage. When you trim, clean the scissors or clippers (ideally with rubbing alcohol) between cutting different plants so you are not transmitting anything from one to the other.

Most houseplants species originate in the hot, humid tropics. They are happiest in those conditions; however, that can be a tall order to replicate with our over-heated homes. Restoring some of the humidity with frequent misting along with situating plants near kitchens & bathrooms will replicate some of that.

Before looking for brand new houseplants, investigate where you are most likely to site them. Are the spots on the south or west side, where strong sunlight extends? If so, you may find the most success with succulents. These are thick-leafed plants, which are utilized to store water within. About the only way you can kill a succulent is to overwater it.

Speaking of watering, many people take the ‘more is better’ approach with sketchy results. Especially in sealed-bottom pots, where the extra water has no place to go, too much watering prevents the roots from accessing oxygen. Basically, the plant drowns. The best way to prevent this is to limit watering to 1-2 times a week, deep-watering when you do. Smaller plants may need water more often than larger ones. (If you find a plant wilting long before this, it may be root-bound. That means that it has used up a lot of the materials in the soil, making a bigger plant & roots along the way. Find a bigger pot for it.) The easiest way to check for water is to check the soil moisture just below the surface dirt; if it doesn’t stick to your fingers, it’s pretty dry. You can also just lift the pot (unless it’s too big) to check the weight, a dry plant weighs considerably less……after a little practice you will be able to tell quite easily.

If you are in the market for a larger plant & have a sunny spot, consider a citrus plant. A lemon tree, for example, can bring an aura of the warm Mediterranean into your home, which is especially welcome during the oncoming winter months. Citrus plants are relatively care-free & pest-free and may even yield some bonus fruit. The blossoms of many smell quite sweet too. Fort Collins Nursery has a wide variety of citrus plants, including: oranges, lemons, limes, grapefruits, kumquats, tangerines, key limes, and more!

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Post-flood Yard and Garden Cleanup

by Bridget Tisthammer

We are thankful for all your kind words of concern and encouragement during our recent flooding event. The waters have receded and we’re busy cleaning up. As you can see, we’re almost back to normal. The flood was devastating, but there’s nothing on the property that we can’t fix! FallNursery_Wagons

In the meantime, you may be dealing with some flood damage in your own garden. If you have a vegetable garden that was covered by flood waters, here are some tips to help you sort through the damage.

Throw away any vegetables that are eaten raw, such as leafy greens like lettuce, cabbage and spinach; and soft fruits, including strawberries, raspberries and blackberries. Some leafy crops, such as chard, beet tops and spinach, must be cooked thoroughly before eating. Use the sanitizing procedure described on this page before cooking.

Sanitizing Procedure:
1. Diluted Bleach Solution: Mix 1 tablespoon bleach (without scents or thickeners) with 1 gallon potable water.
2. Wash crops in potable water, using a vegetable scrub brush to get in crevices.
3. Place the vegetables in the diluted bleach solution for two minutes.
4. Rinse again with potable water.

You can also save root crops like carrots, potatoes, beets and radishes by washing them using the sanitizing procedure.

Throw away any soft-skinned vegetables, such as tomatoes, peppers, peas, beans eggplant and summer squash, which were in contact with flood water. You can wash and sanitize hard-skinned crops such as watermelon, pumpkin and winter squash using the procedure described here.

Unfortunately, no one can tell us for sure what contaminants were in the flood water—it could contain chemicals, oil, sewage, bacteria or parasites. For this reason, do not try to grow anything in your flooded garden for 90 days.

Was your turf damaged by the flood? Tony Koski, turf specialist with the CSU Extension Service, provided the following information:

As soon as flood waters have receded, clean up any debris that the waters deposited on your lawn. This includes rocks, glass, metal, wood and piles of leaves. If you have a layer of muck—that thick, black gummy soil that the waters carried down from fire-affected areas—you can try to remove it by shoveling and washing with a garden hose and jet sprayer. Depending on how much muck you have, this may not be possible.

It may take two to three weeks for your turf to dry out, depending on the weather, your soil and how quickly the area drains. At this point, you can measure the amount of muck on your lawn to determine the next step.

If you have less than one to two inches of muck, and your lawn was covered by water less than four days, it has a good chance of recovery. Check for new shoots of grass to determine if your lawn can recover. Once regrowth begins, it will slowly continue until the lawn has completely filled in. Be sure to aerate your lawn this fall. When you see some regrowth beginning, go over the lawn three to four times with a core-type aerifier. This will help break up soil layering problems and improve soil oxygen levels. Then fertilize the lawn, following the label instructions, in October.

You can also overseed after aerification if you see any thin areas in the lawn or if parts of the lawn aren’t showing new growth. Use a seeding rate of five to six pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet. Rake the lawn lightly to move the seed into aeration holes. Water the lawn to keep it moist, but not soggy.

If you have two inches or more of muck, the chances of the lawn recovering are slim. You may have to resign yourself to the fact that your lawn (or at least part of it) will need to be reestablished. One option is to remove as much of the muck as you can down to the level of the lawn. This may not be practical due to the size of your lawn or the amount of muck to be removed. An easier option may be to rototill the muck and damaged grass into your soil as deeply and thoroughly as possible. Avoid allowing the soil to remain layered—to have a layer of muck, a layer of dead grass and a layer of soil. By thoroughly mixing the three layers into one homogenous layer, you are creating a new root zone for the new lawn. After you have leveled and firmed the new soil mixture, you can seed or sod the lawn.

As always, we are here to help you in your quest to be a successful gardener so please feel free to contact us regarding questions related to the flood or any other gardening questions you may have.

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Flood 2013 Update

by Heather Chappell

This bumper sticker has taken on a whole new meaning!

The water has receded and we have been able to get in, assess the damage, begin clean-up and ultimately, open for business. We have received so many phone calls and emails from concerned customers, checking in on us to make sure we are here and to inquire into the well-being of our staff. We can’t thank you enough for your support and well wishes. Our staff have experienced varying degrees of trouble related to the flood, but ALL are well, and that is what we care about most!

Our story started with a crawfish! One lonely crawfish made its way from the creek, about 30 feet, to the back door of our potting shed on Thursday morning, September 12th, 2013. Looking back now the little mud-bug seemed to be making the effort to sound the call for us. Our Production Manager, Brendan Anderson, found the creature and returned him to the creek, wondering, “What does he know that I don’t?” Turns out, a lot! By mid-morning on Thursday Dry Creek, that runs through our property, had risen quite a bit and by mid-afternoon the Poudre River, that we back up to, was running extremely high, fast and muddy. There appeared to be a lot of debris from the fires washing down the river at that time. We decided to move as much heavy material from the back of our property onto higher ground to avoid it getting carried out into the river, causing possible blockages to the bridge at Timberline and bigger issues for our neighbors along Mulberry and the town as a whole, should the flooding take place. We moved plants and benches away from the bridges, put electronics up on desks and tables in our offices and then our owner, Jesse Eastman, made the call, “that’s it now, everyone needs to get your things and get home to safety, we have done all that we can.”

Friday morning brought the news that we were flooded and that the nursery could not open. Jesse made it out here and took pictures, which he posted to our Facebook page. We were heart sick to see the damage, knowing the only thing to do was to wait.

By Saturday we were able to get in to the nursery. We roped off areas, opened for business and got busy cleaning up. Saturday was spent helping customers who came by, assessing the damage, moving more plants out of harm’s way, cleaning up areas we could get to and preparing for round two, should the flood waters rise again. We made a makeshift lunchroom in our classroom area as the employee lunchroom was flooded.

Sunday dawned with…. MORE RAIN! Jesse decided that given the ongoing flood risk and poor conditions, we would be closed on Sunday.

Thank you to our customers for keeping us going!

The rain began to slow, Monday came, and with it eventually sunshine. We brought in equipment and materials to begin filling in and re-grading areas that were swept away and begin putting order back to the nursery. As of this post, we still have areas closed off to the public and cannot predict how long it will take to have all areas re-opened. Although some areas are not open to the public, plants are still accessible to employees and we have many trees, shrubs and plants that are accessible to the public.

Finally, we want to acknowledge the unwavering fortitude and strength of our staff! Without their commitment and love for the nursery, we would not be where we are, only 2 days out from the flooding. They have worked tirelessly, both day and night, throughout these trying days to take care of areas that could be reached and get the nursery back to the place that you have come to love as well.

Thank you all so much for the offers of help and support. The best thing you can do for us right now is to come out to see us and shop with us. We are here, we are open and as always we are committed to serving you and helping you green up your life!

PQ7

TreesMudRun

WorkinGirls BackFence

EmployeeGardens

LilyCleanUp ShovelingScott

MudPrints RacoonPrint

Dry creek flooding between the bridges.

Dry Creek between the bridges after the flooding.

During the flooding, high water over the perennial bridge.

After the flooding, low water and destruction around the perennial bridge.

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Your Lawn is Hungry. Feed it!

by Cortney Moore

Grass Soon lawns everywhere will be ready for hibernation or dormancy if you prefer. Some simply call it brown. Like a hungry bear or squirrels collecting nuts, turf grass needs sustenance to help it through the winter.

Fall is the ideal time to fertilize lawns. A late season application of lawn fertilizer is often referred to as winterizer. When selecting a fertilizer for this application there are a few considerations:

Look for a good percent of nitrogen as it is still the most important nutrient
Added phosphorous and potassium are a benefit
Select a fertilizer developed for our area. We recommend Jirdon Winterizer and Alpha Organic Winterizer.

Nitrogen promotes healthy, lush green top growth. Phosphorous supports a strong, dense root system and potassium aids in overall plant hardiness. These are the three numbers listed on any fertilizer and they are referred to as N-P-K. Examples are Jirdon Winterizer with 18-6-12 and Alpha Organic Winterizer with 12-4-4.

The most important quality when selecting a fertilizer at anytime of the year is to be certain it is developed for our soils. The Alpha line of fertilizers is produced locally and Jirdon has a long history in our area. It is appropriate to use any of the Jirdon or Alpha products recommended for lawn fertilizing. Colorado’s Own Lawn Food is another good choice.

The benefits of a winterizer include:

Late season fertilizer application enhances strong root development
Stored nitrogen promotes early spring green up without a heavy flush of growth which means less mowing in the spring and less chance of disease
Produces dense roots and shoots to minimize spring weed seed germination and limit overall weed establishment

The proper time to apply winterizer is September through November depending on how our season ends. The grass needs to be green when the fertilizer is spread. Some moisture and warmth are important so don’t wait until we get into a cold, dry spell. Also pay attention if the temperatures are hot. It is better to wait until it cools down a bit. If natural moisture isn’t forecasted a light watering is sufficient.

Winterizer is often described as the most important application of the season, so don’t let your lawn go hungry this fall!

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Pleasant New Patio

TheRollingBistro We have installed an amazing new patio where you can enjoy breakfast or lunch from The Rolling Bistro. Take a look and then stop by and enjoy it for yourself, we would love to see you!