FCN Blog

Our Business is Growing!

Fort Collins Nursery can trace its roots back to the early 1930s, originally named Kinghorn Nursery, and a fair sight smaller than it is today. Through the decades, the business has morphed and grown, passing hands from one owner to the next, moving from west Fort Collins to its current location on East Mulberry Street, dividing into two thriving businesses (Fort Collins Nursery and Fort Collins Wholesale Nursery), and even acting as a springboard for countless landscape companies, arborists, growers, and other green industry professionals. Today, Fort Collins Nursery stands as a premier garden center and nursery, and we’re not done growing yet!

Over the winter, we undertook a major expansion of our retail greenhouse and garden center. We added nearly 7,000 square feet of covered retail space and specialized propagation space, rearranged significant portions of our shrub area, and dedicated an entire building to showcasing pottery and planters – The Clay House.

These changes are the end result of a long process of looking for ways to grow to continue to meet the needs of the northern Colorado gardening community, and we are pleased as punch to have such amazing support from each and every one of you! We absolutely love what we do, and we love seeing all of you and learning about your landscape projects, your houseplant collections, your vegetable gardens, and all the other wonderful things you do to make our world a little bit more lush, a little bit more colorful, and, if I can invent a word here, a little plantier.

We will be hosting our Grand Opening for the newly remodeled building at our Spring Open House on April 27th, 2019, but if you want a sneak peak, the space is open and we’d love to see you! Thank you for your support for the last 87 years, we can’t wait to see what the next 87 holds in store!

 

Sincerely,

Jesse Eastman

Owner & General Manager

Fort Collins Nursery

Planning for Pleasure in the Garden

By Jesse Eastman

In the past I’ve written about the importance of developing a detailed plan prior to the start of the gardening season – measure your beds, track sunlight, review your carefully compiled notes from the previous season, etc. Here’s the thing about all that: I was wrong. This detail-oriented approach is just one way to plan, but that doesn’t make it right. Don’t get me wrong, charts and diagrams are a great method, but only if that’s the way you want to do it. Gardening should make you happy.

When I was a student at Rivendell Elementary School, a great deal of emphasis was placed on “individualized” learning. This approach recognizes the importance of discovering each child’s learning style and adapts his or her educational program to fit. This allows each child to be successful in his or her own unique way. Similarly, a garden plan should be adapted to fit the gardener’s unique style, and success should be measured by each individual gardener.

Perhaps meticulous note-taking and a tape measurer are your weapons of choice in the garden. You look at the space available, consider past successes and failures, and break down the yard into sections to be analyzed and optimized like a high-performance vehicle. The idea of winging it makes you shake your head and feel sorry for those scatter-brained gardeners whose approach you might consider to be cavalier. If this you, embrace the comprehensive approach, and while you’re at it, develop contingency plans in case of bad weather or unforeseen pest problems. Your desire for order will thank you.

If, on the other hand, the suggestion of a meticulous and measured methodology sends you into a fit of anxiety, you might prefer a more “freehand” approach. Maybe there is a certain peony you’ve seen, and you want it in your yard. A more fastidious gardener might say “too bad there’s no space in my yard for that peony,” but not you. You will gladly accept the challenge, pruning a tree branch to allow more light, removing a tired daylily, and ultimately finding a way to squeeze that plant you’ve always wanted into your landscape.

Even still, this might be seem like a very organized approach compared to what you’re comfortable with. Your approach might be more…primal. You feel the need to plant something, but don’t have any strong idea what that something should be. You shop impulsively and ride the winds of fate like a leaf in the breeze. Sure, you might suffer some devastating failures, but you’ll also experience some dizzying successes that would leave more data-driven gardeners scratching their heads, wondering how on earth you managed to grow that plant in that spot.

For me, gardening is about enjoying and celebrating life. I fall somewhere in between the strict planner and the freehand gardener. I like knowing what to expect and I love optimizing my landscape, but I realize there are certain things I can’t live without and I will bend over backwards to find a way to make them thrive. This is the approach that brings me the most pleasure, but that that doesn’t mean it’s a perfect fit for anyone else. Some of the most beautiful landscapes I’ve ever encountered are works of chance and folly (after all, nature is a tinkerer, not a designer). Therefore, I offer you a full and unconditional retraction of my suggestion that the best way to garden is with graph paper and a ruler. The best way to garden is the way that makes you happy, and you are the only person who knows what that looks like!

Originally published May 5, 2015

Houseplantitis: Symptoms and Treatments

By Jesse Eastman

Do you or someone you know suffer from Houseplantitis? This common but underdiagnosed condition affects plant lovers around the globe. Common symptoms include:

  • You can’t see out your windows because they are full of plants.
  • You have no more small dinner plates because they’ve all been repurposed as plant saucers.
  • You regularly have to apologize to houseguests because there is nowhere for them to sit or set their coats when they visit without disturbing a plant.
  • You regularly use “I’d love to but I have to water my plants” as an excuse to avoid social obligations.
  • You’ve already gone through the exhaustive searches for plants that will thrive in the more marginal areas or your house – poor light, high traffic, drafty spots next to doors – and have reached the point of plant saturation.
  • You seek out ever more rare and extreme plants, as you no longer find “basic” plants thrilling.

If you struggle with any of these conditions, you may have Houseplantitis.This affliction is defined in medical literature as “A condition that manifests in patients when the quantity of houseplants in a given domicile has swollen to levels that exceed any reasonable use of space.” Sadly, there is no known cure for Houseplantitis. There are, however, several treatments to deal with its symptoms.

The best treatment is acquiring more space for plants. Whether moving to a larger house, building a sunroom or a greenhouse, or simply relocating to a tropical climate where houseplants can happily survive in the much larger space of the great outdoors, more space means less plant crowding. The downside of this treatment is that it can often be impractical and expensive. Furthermore, it can require moving all your plants to a new home, a process which can be traumatic for both plant and plant owner alike.

If this first option is not viable, there are several secondary treatments that are widely available to most consumers that are generally successful in preventing a catastrophic overflow of plant material. One can give away plants to friends, family, coworkers, people you just met, and complete strangers. This may be difficult, as it requires you to pick and choose which plants to keep and which to part with, but has the benefit of endearing yourself to others. It should be noted that this treatment becomes less effective the more often it is used, as those around you will eventually catch onto your ploy and realize you’re simply using them to feed your plant habit.

Another method of reducing your plant inventory is to stop fighting the inevitable death and decay of living matter. It may feel morbid at first, but learning to love the complete life cycle of your plants can be a truly freeing experience. Is your hibiscus showing signs of mite damage? Mites can be a pernicious little beast, often quite difficult to completely eradicate. Instead of putting yourself through the stress of repeated pesticide applications and the anxiety of wondering if you caught the little buggers soon enough, just take a quick trip to the compost pile. Now you get to experience not only the intense emotion of loss but the ecstatic joy of choosing a new plant to take its place!

Naturally, each of these treatment methods has its benefits and drawbacks. We do not recommend choosing a particular approach until you’ve consulted with a horticulture professional to help determine which is best for you. The good news is we’re here for you. Whether you’ve been suffering from houseplantitis for years or if you simply suspect you may be showing the early stages of this often crippling ailment, our expert staff can help you decide the best way to manage the symptoms and regain control over your life, because nobody should have to agonize over something as joyous as introducing one more beautiful plant to their home!

Staying Open to Change in the Creative Process

By Jesse Eastman

As I outlined in last month’s newsletter, we are in the midst of a major construction project that will add roughly 5,000 square feet of covered retail space, will expand our greenhouse significantly, and will provide us with a brand new propagation space. If you’ve ever been involved in a home renovation or new construction project, you probably already know what I am now learning: some of your best ideas don’t come about during the initial planning stages. Instead, they pop into your mind as you watch the project develop. If you’re open to deviating from the plan, you might just end up with something even better than what you set out to accomplish.

As we encounter various reasons to modify our own construction plan, I’ve been thinking about how this compares to landscape projects. Winter is the time for dreaming, for planning, for ideas and preparation. Now is when we browse landscaping websites looking for plants and designs that pique our interest. Now is when we determine whether this is the year we install a new patio and whether it will be surrounded by lawn or by flower beds. We draw up plans, develop budgets, carefully craft timelines, and then tuck all that away while we wait for spring or summer to put the whole thing into motion.

But that’s not where the plan stops. Maybe you take a trip to visit family next month, and while you’re there, you see a pond in their landscape and decide that needs to be incorporated into your yard. Maybe you attend one of our Winter Workshops and learn about some new plants to include in your design. Maybe you see a landscape in dream that upends everything. So it’s back to the drawing board. You probably don’t toss everything out the window, but when you revisit your plan, new concepts take root and work their way in.

Now it’s time to install. You pull the plan out again and dive in, but even with all the planning, all the revisions, your vision is still morphing, developing, changing shape to fit the reality that is right here, right now. In spite of your love for how perfect that pond is in your relative’s yard, you realize now that even though it will fit in your yard, it will make things a little more cramped than you like, so you ditch the pond and opt for a fountain. By cutting the pond, you’ve got leftover budget and decide to buy a bigger tree than you had planned for, enjoying more immediate shade while the rest of your landscape fills in. You improvise, you adapt, you overcome.

This process of vision and revision is what can make a good plan turn out far better than your expectations. Too often, we fall in love with our own ideas, and even if it turns out we were missing a crucial piece of information when we made our plans, we stick to them instead of being open to all the good that changing our minds can bring. Yes, it’s important to maintain the heart of your plan, but you’ll be amazed at what you discover if you let the ideas flow and maintain objectivity throughout the whole process.

At the Nursery, we’re still building our space out and it’s still the same size purpose as originally planned. However, there are so many small details, perhaps even imperceptible to someone not involved in the process, that have changed and will continue to change, and these details are the things that will result in a finished project that outshines its original concept in ways we never could have imagined.

As you explore and plan your own projects for 2019, I hope you’ll have as much fun as I have entertaining the random fleeting thoughts that cross your path on the way to completion – they may be the best ideas you have, if only you can allow them to join you on your adventure!

Big News: We’re Growing!

The new addition on the south side of our existing Greenhouse will include both covered Canopy space and a new Propagation House.

At Fort Collins Nursery we trace our origins back to a humble nursery called Kinghorn Nursery in the early 1930s. Since then, we’ve grown, passed from one owner to the next, changed locations, and eventually split into the two great horticultural institutions known today as Fort Collins Wholesale Nursery and Fort Collins Nursery. In that great tradition of constant growth and improvement, I am pleased to announce the next phase for Fort Collins Nursery. In early November, we began construction on a major expansion of our retail greenhouse, a project which will provide over 5,000 square feet of additional covered shopping, will expand our indoor greenhouse by over 2,500 square feet, and will create a brand new plant propagation house!

 

It takes a big drill to drill big holes for the concrete piers that will support the structure.

This project has been years in the making. As our community has continued to grow and thrive, we have found ourselves barely able to keep up with the demand for more plants. In 2016, we began exploring ways to meet the increasing demand by looking for land where we could move our plant production operations, but were unable to identify the right property to fit our needs. After a long and fruitless search, we changed our focus to upgrading our facilities to better manage the needs of our customers, and the concept of expanding our retail buildings was born. Ideas were formed, explored, picked apart, and tossed aside until we settled on the project that is now underway. With the help of DS Constructors, we were able to create a design, clear the permitting process (no easy task!), find the best builders around, and are now full steam ahead with the construction process.

 

Setting the columns.

We are very excited about what this expansion will mean for you, our customers, in the years to come. Among the many benefits, you can expect:

  • More covered retail space. Our expanded Canopy space means that many more of your favorite landscape plants will have protection from the most extreme weather. They will look nicer throughout the season, will be less stressed when they are ready to go home with you, and will be easier to access regardless of what craziness the weather throws our way.
  • Better events. Rain or shine, we’ll have more covered space for our already epic events including our Open Houses, specialty plant events, and our extremely popular Giant Pumpkin Weigh-Off. We know how to throw a good party, and now we can keep from getting rained on while we do it!
  • More space in the Greenhouse. We will be able to offer an even wider variety of your favorite vegetables, herbs, houseplants, annuals, and tropical plants, and you’ll have more room to move around when you visit.
  • An even better selection of quality plants grown right here in Fort Collins. Our new Propagation House will allow us to ensure we’ve always got the plants you want, even if other growers aren’t growing them.

 

With the trusses in place, the building takes shape.

We couldn’t even begin to dream about a project like this if we didn’t believe in the long-term continued success of our business, and for that, we thank you. We are deeply honored to have such amazing support from our customers. From our humble beginnings over 85 years ago, we have seen generations of gardeners and plant lovers pass through our doors, and we plan on being here when your kids and grandkids are ready to pick up the shovel and plant their own landscapes. We can’t wait to see you this spring when our new space is open to the public. Until then, keep on growing!

 

Check back often for updated photos of the project!

Nursery Pot Recycling to End at Fort Collins Nursery

We are sad to announce that beginning January 1st, 2019, we will no longer be offering a recycling program for nursery pots. While this program has been extremely popular, we have recently learned that our local plastics recycling facilities will no longer accept nursery pots with their standard recycling loads. This means that nursery plastic can only be reused or sent to the landfill.  

Our goal is to develop a pot return program so we can accept the certain types of pots that we can reuse in our own plant production. However, until we can work out the details of how that might work, we are unable to accept any used plastic pots.

As of January 22, 2019, pots larger than the #5 / 5 gallon size may still be recycled at the Timberline Recycling Center, located at 1903 S. Timberline Rd. This center offers a wide range of recycling for all kinds of “hard-to-recycle” items and is open Tuesday – Saturday, 8 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.

  • For more information on recycling in Fort Collins, click here.
  • For more information on recycling in Loveland, click here.
  • For more information on recycling in Greeley, click here.
  • For more information on recycling in Cheyenne, click here.
  • For more information on recycling in Laramie, click here.

    Updated January 22, 2019

New Record Set at 2018 Giant Pumpkin Weigh-Off & Fall Jamboree

Joe Scherber with 1,568 lb. winner

Our 10th Annual Giant Pumpkin Weigh-Off is now in the books!  Dozens of pumpkin growers and our largest festival crowd to date gathered here last Saturday to create a truly unforgettable event.  This year’s competition featured 23 entries in multiple categories from some of the top growers in the region.  The day’s top prize went to Joe Scherber from Wheat Ridge, CO, marking his second time as Fort Collins Nursery’s Weigh-Off champion.  Joe’s 1,568 lb. behemoth is a new Fort Collins Nursery contest record and is reportedly the second heaviest pumpkin in Colorado state history!  Joe also set a new state record for his long gourd entry that measured almost 10 ft. long! Here is a list of all of this year’s winners.

Heaviest Pumpkin

  • 1stPlace- Joe Scherber  (1568 lbs)
  • 2ndPlace- Marc Sawtelle (1148 lbs)
  • 3rdPlace- Andy Corbin (1070 lbs)
  • 4thPlace- Jim Grande (987 lbs)
  • 5thPlace- Mick Hodges (873 lbs)

Field Pumpkin

  • 1st Place- Dustin Grubb (85 lbs)

Heaviest Squash

  • 1st Place- Olivia Thayer 

 Howard Dill (Prettiest Pumpkin)

  • 1st Place- Dustin Grubb

 Longest Long Gourd

  • 1st Place- Joe Scherber (117″)

Kids Division

  • 1stPlace-Olivia Thayer

 

Press

 

Photo Gallery

In Praise of Pumpkins!

by Beverly Henke

What does the word pumpkin bring to your mind? I think of holidays, and pie, and of my own somewhat pitiful, but very sincere and prolific pumpkin patch. I think of all the pumpkins I’ve carved, both as a child, and with my own children and the memories that were created from those fun pumpkin moments. I saw a PBS special once on people who can best be described as obsessed with growing the biggest pumpkin in the history of the world. They cover their monstrous pumpkins with blankets and sleep with them at night, to make sure nothing bad happens, and I can’t leave out; “It’s the Great Pumpkin Charlie Brown!”

I discovered years ago, much to my delight, that cucurbits, (pumpkins, other squash and melons) actually love our alkaline soil here in Fort Collins. I don’t believe everything I read or am told, I have to test things out for myself. So naturally I had to plant some New England pie pumpkins, to see if it was true. It is! My first attempt yielded more than two dozen from a total of two plantings with 2 vines in each planting. I ended up with more than sixteen quarts of delicious pumpkin puree. That created a problem with how to use it. I had basically only thought of pumpkin as something to make pies or pumpkin bread from. I now know you can make; scones, pancakes, granola, cookies, and even curry with it. Oh, and my dog LOVES it! He had a near death experience and spoonfuls of pumpkin were how I got him to take his pills.

To grow pumpkins you need to have some compost amended soil, pumpkins don’t like cool ground, so I start them indoors in big peat pots. I also put a big square of black landscape fabric down where they will be planted for a couple weeks before I plant them. This helps warm up the soil. I don’t bother planting them in hills; that is only necessary where there is a lot of rain. They need regular watering and I step up the watering when the squash start to form. You can make “compost tea” by soaking a shovelful of compost in a 5 gallon bucket for a week. Use it to water and feed your pumpkins every now and then. In late summer you will get powdery mildew on the leaves of the vines (it makes them look silvery white), don’t worry about it. This is just a sign that summer is near an end. Start removing any new pumpkins that are trying to form, this will send the plants energy into making the ones that are already growing, bigger. When it starts to cool off water less and let the vines die. Do not remove the pumpkins until the vines are looking pretty bad and the shell is too hard to dent with a fingernail. Cut them off the vine with pruners, leave the stem on to prevent rotting. Take them in the house and let them “ripen” for a couple weeks.

Originally published October 1, 2012

Fall Planting

We generally think of spring – a time of new growth and life – as the time to plant everything including trees & shrubs. However, cooler temperatures make fall an excellent time to plant. The soil is warmer than in the spring, and many of us actually have more time to devote to planting trees and shrubs in the fall, when we aren’t so preoccupied with our annuals and vegetables. Fall is a great time to plant because it gives your new plants time to overcome transplant shock without the added demands of producing leaves and flowers, giving them a jump start over anything planted next spring. We have a great new selection of fresh trees and shrubs plus all your fall favorites like mums, asters, garlic and bulbs.

 

Trees & Shrubs

  • Plant while the soil is still warm (Soil temp. 6″ deep should be above 55 degrees Farenheit) to encourage strong root growth and development. Typically, our soil maintains warm temperatures into mid-October, even after the air is much colder.
  • Container-grown trees, (nearly all trees available at Fort Collins Nursery are container-grown), transplant much better than bare-root or recently dug balled-and-burlapped stock.
  • Keep newly planted trees & shrubs well-watered (but not over watered) until they drop their leaves, and then water them deeply once a month throughout the winter.
  • Young thin-barked trees should be wrapped in late October/early November with a breathable wrap to prevent frost cracks, animal damage, and sunscald. Wrap the trunks with either paper tree wrap or rigid plastic (both in stock now) that allows for air movement. Remove the wrap no later than early/mid March. Trees that have developed the coarse craggy bark typically associated with mature trees do not need to be wrapped in the winter.
  • Mulch trees with 3-4” wood chips to prevent early soil freezing. Avoid piling mulch directly against the trunk.

Bulbs

Every Autumn, our garden shop is taken over with a diverse selection of bulbs for spring color!  Tulips, daffodils, iris, narcissus, allium, crocus and more are available in a rainbow of colors.  These bulbs can be planted up until the soil freezes, but shop early for the best selection!   It is best to plant bulbs early in the fall so that the bulb root has time to get established, prior to the ground freezing, but not too early – wait until daytime temperatures are holding steadily at or below the mid-60s to prevent them from sprouting prematurely in the fall. Bulbs prefer sandy or clay loam soil.  In general, bulbs should be planted at a depth of three to four times the diameter of the bulb.  If planting in a sandy soil, plant two inches deeper.  Small crocus bulbs should be planted at a more shallow depth; large allium or daffodil bulbs should be planted at a deeper depth. (Information courtesy of CSU).   We also offer amaryllis and paperwhite bulbs that can be forced to bloom indoors in the winter months.  Call or stop by for availability, or chat with one of our knowledgeable staff for how-to tips.   We also have all great selection of bulb accessories: gravel, vases, bulb planter tools, books and bulb fertilizers.

There’s No “Right” Way to Garden

By Jesse Eastman

I’m often a bit surprised when people come to the nursery looking for a definitive answer to a question. They can get frustrated and sometimes outright angry when they get different answers to the same question depending on which employee they speak with. While this is an understandable response, it’s important to recognize there are many reasons for this. The science of horticulture is constantly progressing and many issues which we’d like to believe are settled are often still highly debatable. Other times, what may seem like a hard fact to some may depend a lot more on personal taste than on right vs. wrong. Most often, though, it’s simply a matter of there being more than one way to do things while still ending up with a desired result.

Scientific Gray Area

When it comes to the progress of science, there are several factors that hinder our ability to be in lockstep on a particular issue. One factor is simply incomplete information. When it comes to whether or not to remove the wire cage from a ball & burlapped tree’s root ball before planting, there are convincing studies done by exceptionally smart people that come down on both sides of the argument. On the one hand, there is a risk that the wires, left in the ground, may eventually interfere with root growth. On the other hand, the risk of wires damaging roots is very small, and the wire is often the only thing holding the root ball together. The process of completely removing the wire from a ball of soil that could weigh between 500-1000 lbs runs a high risk of damaging that root ball.

Another challenge is the self-correcting nature of scientific discovery. As our scientific understanding of a given topic grows, our practices must change. What you learned as a kid may no longer be valid in the face of new information. A great example of this can be found when you look at the history of soil amendment recommendations for new trees and shrubs. As recently as 10 years ago, we recommended that the soil used to backfill around a root ball when planting be comprised of 30-50% compost or other soil amendment. Since then, studies showed a much higher long-term success rate with only 15-20% amendment. The most current science supports eliminating soil amendment altogether in most cases, in spite of the short-term benefits of adding organic matter to the soil when planting. For a more in-depth explanation, read this article by Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott of Washington State University and The Garden Professors.

Fact vs. Opinion

People generally like things to be black and white, right or wrong. In horticulture, however, the line between right and wrong is not always so clear, and many times not that important. Rose pruning is a perfect example. Here in Colorado, most roses will suffer some degree of winter die-back, leaving us with some branches in the spring that do not leaf out and must be pruned. While some gardeners prefer to preemptively prune their roses in the fall, others prefer to wait until spring. Experience shows that it does not make a significant difference in the overall longevity of the rose whether you prune in fall or spring, but the outcomes for each approach can have noticeable differences.

Fall pruning allows you to dispose of rose branches at the same time as all your other fall yard debris (and if you’re busy working in the spring like we are, you get as much done in fall as you can!) This can leave a much tidier looking landscape through the winter. However, because the plants may not have died back as far as they were pruned, they may be shorter next season than they would have if left to their own devices, albeit a little bushier and fuller.

If you choose to wait until spring, you can selectively prune only those branches that died back over winter. This requires a second round of debris disposal, but ensures you haven’t removed any wood that was sturdy enough to survive the winter. The plants may get a little taller, but may be leggier as well. As you can see, the trade-off is based on your personal taste – the rose will thrive either way.

Many Paths, One Goal

Finally, we often give conflicting information because there is more than one way to accomplish the same thing.

You can grow delicious vegetables in raised garden beds, in containers, or directly in the ground. In-ground gardens require less materials to build, but drainage can be challenging and you’ve got a bit more work to do to make the soil nice and rich for vegetables. Raised beds and containers drain well and bring the garden up to you, so you don’t have to bend over as far to work the soil. You choose what soil to fill them with, so you can get good soil much more quickly. However, you’ve also got to build and/or buy the materials to build the raised beds or containers, so the initial cost may be higher. In spite of the sometimes dramatically different procedures involved in these various methods, the end result is still a big red juicy tomato!

Plant selection is another arena where the end result may be the same, but the choices that got you there varied significantly. If you want to plant a pollinator garden, you can plant tons of annuals like dianthus, snapdragons, lantana, and more, or you can plant all perennials such as hyssop, bee balm, coneflower, and honeysuckle. If your goal is to feed pollinators, either option will be wonderful, but the process is very different. Your annual flowers can easily be swapped for something different next year if you’re not pleased with the results, because you’ll be replacing everything anyhow. Your perennial flowers may take a year or two to fill in and thrive, so there is more long-term commitment, but less work in subsequent years since those plants will survive the winter and pop up again next spring.

In this modern era of instant information, it is easy to get stuck in analysis paralysis. Too much information makes it hard to decide what to pay attention to and what to ignore, and that doesn’t even account for the flat out wrong information that seems so popular. Successful gardening depends a lot on recognizing and adjusting for regional differences, a fact which is all too often overlooked when researching gardening online. It also depends on being able to distinguish between two apparently opposing pieces of advice to determine what will be best for you and your particular project. A phrase I repeat often is “The best gardeners in the world have killed more plants than anyone else.” There is a lot of trial and error in learning to garden, and through that process we learn and grow. If you find yourself confused or lost in a sea of advice, don’t panic! Just remember, there’s probably a reason for every piece of advice. If you can find out the reason behind the information, you can decide what’s best for you, and find your own “right way.”