By Laurel Aiello
Houseplants are a bit like animals that hibernate in the winter. As the days get shorter and colder, they either go fully dormant or slow their growth significantly until spring comes around. Since they use less energy during this time, they need less attention from us as plant parents, even though it can be hard to leave them alone. Here are some tips to keep them alive while letting them rest.
Water less often
In the winter, houseplants dry out much slower than they do on the hottest days of the year. Less sunlight and lower temperatures result in soil taking longer to dry out and plants becoming less active—hence why fewer new leaves emerge from November to April. Thirsty plants that need thorough watering twice per week in the summer (like crotons and calatheas) tend to prefer weekly waterings in the winter, whereas plants that need weekly waterings in the summer (like philodendrons and scheffleras) should be watered every week- and-a-half to two weeks during the cold months. Low-water plants—think ZZ plants, snake plants, Chinese evergreens and dieffenbachia—can do with a thorough watering every couple of weeks in the winter. Monthly watering is usually enough for succulents and cacti. The size of the plant also determines how often it should be watered. For example, tiny plants in two- to four-inch pots dry out much quicker than large plants in eight- to 14-inch pots. If a plant is overwatered, meaning it’s watered too frequently, that’s when roots start to rot and fungus gnats (those fruit fly-looking pests) appear. It’s much easier to overwater plants in the winter, so if you aren’t sure whether it’s time to get out the watering can, it’s better to wait an extra day or two just to be safe. It’s always easier for a plant to recover from a dry wilt than rotten roots.
Pause on fertilizing
Houseplants naturally slow their growth this time of year, which isn’t a sign they need a boost. Fertilizers should only be used in the spring, summer and early fall, when plants are getting lots of sunlight and using that energy to push out new growth or blooms. Plants that are placed under grow lights can handle a little fertilizer since the light keeps them active, but in general, all fertilizers—even slow-release houseplant fertilizers such as Osmocote—should be put away in the winter.
Save repotting for spring
While it’s tempting to repot your plants if you have nothing better to do on a snowy Sunday, think twice. Plants don’t like to be disturbed during dormancy, so fussing with their roots can cause them stress. If you don’t want leaves dropping, drooping or changing color, leave your plants in their current homes (even if they’re root-bound) until spring returns and growth resumes. Shock caused by winter repotting can be difficult for plants to recover from, as they are already more prone to issues like root rot.
Minimize drafts
Both cold and hot drafts can stress plants out, especially in the winter. Keep your houseplants away from exterior doors, leaky windows, fireplaces and heat registers so they don’t drop their leaves or turn yellow or brown. Some species, like fiddle leaf figs, are particularly sensitive to drafts, making it even more important to protect them when it’s cold out. Raise the humidity If possible, increase your home’s humidity to keep leaves from crisping up or dropping in the winter. Running your furnace dries out the air even more than it already is, which is why many people use a whole-home humidifier or place smaller ones in bedrooms and rooms with lots of plants. It’s important to note that the ambient humidity is what matters, so DIY hacks like water pebble trays are less effective. Still, anything is better than nothing when combating the dry Colorado air.
Trim yellow leaves and check for pests
While repotting isn’t advised during the winter, tending to the leaves is perfectly fine. Use a pair
of clean, sharp pruners to remove any yellow or brown leaves, which are often signs of watering
issues, tap water sensitivity (especially for dracaenas, spider plants and calatheas), temperature
fluctuations, fungal infection or pests. Don’t remove more than 20 percent of the leaves, as any
more than that can cause stress.
Treat any plants that have pests with neem oil or insecticidal soap, repeating and alternating the
treatments if necessary. Isolate sick plants from healthy ones so the problem doesn’t spread,
and if it gets worse—especially mealy bugs and other sap-sucking insects—try a systemic
insecticide. If you don’t know which treatment to try, ask the experts at your local plant nursery
for help. They’ve seen it all and can recommend something that will do the trick.
Originally published on December 1st, 2025.